There are two schools of thought when it comes to explaining the begging behaviour of puppies; the first (and most popular) interpretation of this common canine activity is that it is triggered by pet owners who give their young dogs food scraps in the kitchen (before or after human mealtimes), or feed them treats directly from the dinner table.

The second explanation is that your puppy is simply exhibiting an innate example of pack behaviour; in wild dog packs, an alpha will eat his food first, and then the other dogs will follow suit. If you feed your young dog before you eat, you are sending the message that your puppy is the alpha, and that he or she is in control (versus you being in control).

Whether you give your puppy “human” food before, during or after your own meals, you are definitely contributing to begging behaviour that may include whining and even aggression. To stop the whole tedious process, you must retrain your little pet by teaching him or her that begging won’t result in tasty treats.

When you make an effort to stop rewarding begging with food treats, you’ll break this vicious cycle and help your young dog to understand that begging is no longer a valid strategy. Of course, if you’ve been indulging Fido by giving in to his begging, nipping this bad puppy habit in the bud will not be an overnight process. It will take time to re-orient your pet’s thinking. The best way to speed the process along is by keeping your puppy away from the table, or from any place where humans have gathered to enjoy meals or snacks. Some pet owners choose to purchase puppy crates; these useful square containers are an important facet of effective, successful puppy training.

If you have a crate, you may elect to send your puppy there while you eat; by removing your pet from the equation during your breakfast, lunch or dinner, you will make it easier for him or her to break this annoying and exasperating habit.

Staying firm and exhibiting control is the key to eliminating or reducing puppy begging; however, you don’t need to be mean to get the results that you want…simply order Fido into his crate until you’re done eating. In time, your loyal canine friend will understand that his mealtimes are not the same as yours, and he will adjust. After this understanding has been made you can eliminate sending the puppy to his or her crate during mealtimes.

If this strategy doesn’t work out for you, consider keeping your puppy around while you eat. The best way to make this work is to give your young dog his or her puppy food and water while you’re enjoying your own meals. A dog with his or her own food will be too distracted to worry about what’s being consumed at the “people” table (and how he or she can get some!). Another benefit of this strategy is that all meal prep and clean-up for human and animal meals takes place in one streamlined block of time; feeding everyone at regular intervals is easier and faster than staggering puppy and human mealtimes.

Your puppy will need time to relax his or her stubborn reliance on begging for treats; after all, he or she is likely very strong-willed when it comes to seeking out satisfying food from owners and visitors. Positive reinforcement is a great way to let Fido know that you appreciate any improvements with regard to begging. If your puppy doesn’t beg during your mealtime, reward him or her in a “non-food” way; hugs, petting, playtime, and positive verbal reinforcements (such as, “Good dog!”) are great ways to show your puppy that you appreciate the reduction in begging behaviour.

Obviously, negative reinforcement will also play a role. Swats, grabbing, or any physical punishment is upsetting to puppies, and it may trigger even more acting out on the part of your beloved pet. Be gentle and sweet, but never let down your guard; use crating, meal schedules, and positive reinforcement to retrain Fido fast…

Human beings have to take a large chunk of responsibility for annoying begging behaviour in puppies; it’s important to understand the role your own actions have played in the development of this typical puppy activity. By cutting out your own bad habits (and never giving in to your dog’s imploring eyes, whining noises, and constant prompts to be fed outside of regular mealtimes), you will set the right example, and change the way your dog behaves. Stopping puppy begging may not be a fast or simple procedure, but it will definitely happen in time, as long as you are kind and firm.

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Puppies are not toys. They need your full attention and a lot of training to grow up to be a well-behaved adult dog.

The little fur balls may prefer to spend all of their time with you, but unfortunately, there are times when you have to leave your puppy at home. Do yourself a favor and begin training your puppy to spend some time alone as soon as he or she arrives at your house.

Remember that puppies are social animals and they enjoy the company of others. When left alone, they seek out things to do. This can mean that they chew things they shouldn’t or dig holes in the yard. There are some things you can do to minimize the destructive behavior.

One of the first things you need to do is decide whether you will keep your puppy indoors or outdoors during your absence. Much depends on the area in which you live. In a climate with extreme temperatures, it is definitely best to leave your puppy indoors when you go away so that he or she is not subject to summer’s beating sun or a winter freeze.

If you choose to leave the puppy indoors, you have several options. One is to crate the dog when you are away. Another is to confine the puppy to a room.

It is important to teach the puppy to be settled. It is a good idea to include “quiet moment” training in your puppy’s education. For example, when playing, take a moment to have the puppy settle down by your side while discontinuing the playful behavior.

You may want to take time out of the day when you are home with the puppy to confine the dog. This will help prepare the puppy for the times when you do have to leave home.

Never make a fuss about leaving the puppy alone. This only heightens their anxiety. When it is time to go, just walk out the door. Don’t spend time on goodbyes.

It never hurts to tire the puppy out before departing. Spend 10 or 15 minutes exercising the dog before you prepare to leave home. Be sure to provide chew toys and play toys to entertain the puppy in your absence.

Some folks will leave a radio or television playing while they are gone.

Some puppies find comfort in an old item of your clothing. For example, you may leave them with an old flannel shirt that has your scent. This can provide comfort.

If you choose to leave the puppy outdoors, make sure he or she is protected from the elements. Leave adequate food and water. In summer, provide shade. In winter, provide shelter.

If you know that you will have to be away for an extended period of time, it is a good idea to have someone check in on the puppy. This is especially true with very young dogs that do not yet have a lot of bladder or bowel control.

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You’ve been away all day. You’re looking forward to nuzzling the small fur ball and lavishing attention to make up for your absence.

Stop! Rethink the situation. Lavishing a lot of attention could backfire. The puppy can become excited. It may choose to try to jump up on you to return the attention. This can be the start of a very bad jumping habit.

Consider a pack of wolves where it is common for the dominant or alpha members of the pack to leave to go hunting. When the hunting wolves return, the rest of the pack will usually attempt to lick the muzzle of the more dominant wolves. In general, the alpha wolves usually choose to ignore the underlings. This is really about re-establishing the pack hierarchy.

The same phenomenon occurs when a puppy’s owner leaves and returns. The good news is that you can train your puppy to curtail his or her excitement, thus eliminating unwanted jumping and slobbering.
If you immediately bend to the whim of your puppy, you are establishing yourself as a follower and not a leader. It is important that humans maintain their alpha position.

The following suggestions can help you train your puppy to behave in the manner you expect.

First, make sure your puppy understands and heeds the “sit” command. By having the puppy sit in a controllable manner when you arrive home, you are maintaining control and don’t have to worry about shredded pantyhose or muddy trousers.

Start the no jumping training at the door you are most likely to use as an entrance and exit. Enter your home as you normally would. If your puppy jumps up on you, immediately turn and walk away. Do not acknowledge the puppy in any way.

Wait until the puppy gives up on the jumping endeavor to interact with him or her. Instruct the puppy to sit. Now you can give your praise and perhaps offer a treat. If repeated, this simple exercise can make a big difference in how your puppy reacts when you return home.

Next, it is important to reinforce the no jumping rule for visitors. One way is to use a long leash. Hook it to the puppy when you are expecting company. When the puppy runs toward the visitor, use the leash to bring the dog to a stop. Make the puppy sit.

Urinating as a result of being excited is another common behavioral problem. While it is most common among puppies, it does happen with adult dogs too.

Most puppies do outgrow the excitement urination phase. However, until that happens, you must not show anger because the puppy probably has no idea that he or she is doing something wrong.

The best thing is to refrain from exciting the puppy any more than necessary. Don’t make a fuss when you walk in the door. Avoid eye contact with the puppy. Be calm. Return to your normal activities until the puppy settles down. Reward the puppy for being calm.

Your guests will appreciate the fact that your puppy is well-behaved and mannerly.

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I was at the pet store the other day when I noticed bags of litter for dogs. I thought I had heard of everything, but that turned out to be a new one to me.

After chuckling over the absurdity of the idea – after all, litter boxes are for cats – I found myself returning to the thought several times throughout the day. And the more I thought about it, the more sense it made.

Litter boxes can actually be quite beneficial to dogs, especially small ones whose tiny bladders don’t have the holding capacity that larger dogs do. Having a litter box just might make good health sense.

In addition, dogs that use litter boxes may be a little easier to travel with. No more frightful stops along the road where tractor trailer rigs threaten to blow you to Kansas as they speed by.

If the idea of a dog litter box sounds like it might work for you, here are a few things to keep in mind. Obviously, the first order of business is to buy a litter box. Some folks opt to use large cat litter boxes. There are also manufacturers that sell litter boxes that are designed for use by dogs.

The next step is to decide what type of litter you will use. Some people prefer newspapers or absorbent urine pads. There are companies that manufacture litter especially for dogs. Some use cat litter. All will work.

Once the dog is trained to use the litter box, you will need to empty it frequently to keep unwanted odors from invading your home. Some people prefer to scoop the urine-soaked litter and feces directly into a trash bag headed for an outdoor trash receptacle.

A diaper pail can save you a lot of footsteps. Instead of making frequent trips to the outdoor trash can, line a diaper pail with a plastic bag and scoop the doggie waste into it. Most diaper pails seal so that odors cannot escape.

In addition to interior litter boxes, there are those that are designed for outdoor use in areas such as the porch or patio. These are merely boxes about four inches in height that hold a removable perforated tray that can be filled with synthetic grass, gravel or real sod. The outdoor setups, which come in multiple sizes, allow urine to drain through a layer of odor-absorbing cat litter.

Litter boxes are not ideal for all dogs. Finding a place for a box big enough to handle large-breed dogs can be an obstacle.

If you decide that a litter box is right for your dog, keep in mind that it will be more difficult to teach a dog to use it than it is to teach a cat. Positive reinforcement and perseverance are the keys to success.

You will most likely have an easier time training a puppy to use a litter box than an older dog, so be prepared when you bring the puppy home for the first time.

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Teaching your puppy good manners is as important as providing good food, plenty of exercise and adequate health care.

The idea is to train your puppy so that you can take him or her with you anywhere without being embarrassed due to bad behavior or a lack of manners. That means you need to spend time working with your puppy so that he or she understands what is expected. You absolutely cannot expect your puppy to learn manners on his or her own. You are the teacher and it is your duty to train your puppy to function and behave in a manner that is acceptable to you.

It is important to keep in mind the fact that not all people love dogs. In fact, some are downright terrified of four-legged animals. Others do not want their clothing covered with dog hair. Most do not want to have muddy puppy footprints on their pant legs.

Thus, one of the most important things you can teach your puppy is to not jump up on people. This means family members as well and friends, neighbors and strangers. Keep in mind that a tiny puppy that jumps may be no big deal to most folks. However, when the puppy grows into a large dog that weighs 50 pounds or more, people are not going to be a forgiving.

There are several ways to teach a puppy not to jump. One is to move towards the puppy whenever he or she begins to jump up on you. The forward movement will keep the puppy from gaining balance. Most puppies will give up on the idea if they cannot achieve their goal.

Another means of training puppies to not jump is to put the dog on a lead. Have another person work with you. If the puppy starts to jump when the other person approaches, give him the “off” command. Don’t jerk the leash. This could call injury. Simply step aside while saying “off” and allow the puppy a moment to regroup before trying again. Repeat until the puppy gets the idea that jumping is unacceptable.

Excess barking is another habit that many people find annoying. Dogs bark for a variety of reasons. They may be trying to get your attention or to stake out their territory. They may be trying to alert you of danger or simply playing. Many dogs tend to bark at other animals. Some howl because they’re lonely or stressed.

Talk to a responsible trainer about what methods might work best when trying to teach your puppy to quiet down on command. Training techniques may vary due to the breed of the dog. Some breeds are more apt to bark for no real reason.

Drooling is something that most people abhor. Thus, you need to teach your puppy not to drool on people. This can be difficult since drooling is a natural reaction for the puppy. At the very least, be aware that your puppy does drool and keep a towel handy so that you can quickly and easily wipe away the problem.

It is important to start training early. The longer you wait, the harder the training process will be. It is much easier to teach new acceptable behavior than it is to get a puppy to stop bad behavior.

Good manners will endear your puppy to people. Bad manners will cause them to avoid you and your dog like the plague.

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As man’s best friend, the last thing any pet owner wants to deal with is an aggressive dog. Whether aggressive towards strangers or strange dogs, no one wants to have to deal with the consequences of an aggressive dog. There are different types of aggression in dogs and they have different causes. Whether you are concerned your dog may become aggressive or you are dealing with a dog that is already displaying aggressive tendencies, there is hope. Even dog breeds that are labels as ‘aggressive breeds’ are not aggressive by nature, and with proper care and training, this behavior can be avoided.

Common aggressive behavior include: barking, growling, lunging at someone or something, mouthing (or biting without using their teeth), snarling, and biting. There are even different kinds of bites that show different levels of aggression. While these behaviors may come up occasionally with an otherwise non-aggressive dog, recognizing when these habits become consistent is the biggest step in figuring out if a dog is aggressive. This is especially true of puppies, who often times do not know better.

When getting a new dog, whether it’s a puppy from a breeder, or an adult from a shelter, asking about it’s personal history and, if you can get it, it’s family history is a good starting point. While this should not be the decision maker, it can provide helpful hints towards the dog’s ability towards aggression.

Puppies and dogs differ in how much time you have to spend with them when you have just brought them home. Puppies, like babies, require almost constant supervision when they are younger. They crave attention and activity to stimulate their minds, and puppies that are left unattended too long can develop not only aggressive habits, but other unacceptable habits as well (such as soiling the carpet), so attention and training are equally important to prevent aggression in puppies.

With adult dogs, it is more often training that leads to aggressive tendencies towards strangers, and loneliness that leads towards aggressive tendencies towards family members. Dogs are pack animals are love spending time with their ‘pack’, pleasing them and doing what they can for them. Lack of training comes into play because with proper training and socialization; they understand that those habits are not acceptable in the pack. With this understanding, they seek to please you by not acting this way.

With aggression towards family members it usually presents in two ways: towards specific family members (especially ‘protecting’ a certain family member) or in general. When dogs are protective of a specific family member, it usually considers them their partner, rather than a more dominant member in the pack. It is that member of the family that must take the lead in training the dog to be a submissive pack member. With general aggression, this is more commonly frustration rather than actual aggression. This usual presents itself when the dog is left by itself for long periods of time (whether outside, on a chain, or even alone in the house). While some dog breeds do fine with being left alone, many breeds do not and their frustration, even their excitement, can be seen as aggression. The easiest way to prevent this is training; whether or not you keep your dog outside in a fenced yard or inside the house when you’re gone shouldn’t matter if they’re well trained.

Dogs that are aggressive towards other dogs are usually under socialized. Socialization should be started young, with every opportunity to introduce your dog to others, it will help it understand it’s place. Not only in your family, but in general. Dogs that are used to seeing new dogs will react with excitement, instead of fear. Fear, or protectiveness of their owner, are the main causes for dog aggression.

Now, if you’ve already gotten a dog and it is displaying aggressive tendencies that go beyond growling and barking; especially if this is your first dog, the best idea is to take them to a professional dog behaviorist, or a trainer before trying anything else. They are trained to find out the problem, and will help you set up a training regimen to get rid of the aggression. You may also consider taking them to a Veterinarian, as sometimes the problem is caused by other health problems and some medication might calm them down.

With dogs of any age, training is the most important step in controlling aggressive tendencies. While they are related to the wolf, dogs were the first ‘pet’ to be domesticated, and naturally act the farthest from their wild ancestors, and genetics have little to do with it. No matter the breed, any dog can be trained away from aggression. So keep in mind, with any dog, that aggression is a trait that can be controlled, even eliminated from all dogs. They’re man’s best friend, and they will try their best to keep their title.

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Dogs make great walking companions. They are always ready to go and they really don’t seem to care where or when you walk them. They won’t complain about the weather or terrain. They are just happy to be with you.

It does take training to teach a dog to walk with you in a manner that won’t dislocate your shoulder or have you bouncing off of the roadway as the dog streaks ahead with you in tow. Here are a few tips that can make walking your dog a lot more pleasurable for both of you.

There is one very important rule to remember when training your dog to walk with you. You need to act like the alpha dog. You lead the walk; the dog should not. Don’t let the dog pull you. Teach him or her to walk beside you or behind you.

Most dogs will get very excited when their owners pick up a leash and head to the door for a walk. Excited dogs may tend to jump and bark. While this may be cute, it is not the best thing to allow.

When beginning a walk, call the dog to come to you. Have the dog sit down and stay put while you attach the leash. You should be the one that is in control. You give the command to get up and go. The dog should not be the one leading the adventure.

Always use a leash when walking the dog. The type of collar may vary depending on how much your dog pulls you when attached to a leash. There are choker and pincher collars that can help control the overzealous dog.

Never allow your dog to run free unless you are absolutely certain it is safe to do so. Many states have laws that require that dogs always be leashed in public areas. This can pertain to hiking trails too, so don’t think that the rules change just because you’re in the woods. Many dogs have gotten separated from their owners and become lost.

Be a responsible pet owner. Carry supplies to clean up after your dog’s bowel movements. There are commercial items available, but a plastic grocery store bag works well and costs nothing. Place the bag over your hand and pick up the stool. Turn the bag inside out and tie the end closed. Dispose of the bag in a proper receptacle.

If you’re going for a substantial distance, be sure that you choose terrain that will not injure your dog’s footpads. Avoid hot concrete and macadam.

Carry water for your dog, especially in warmer temperatures. Proper hydration is important for both you and your dog. There are many commercial items such as collapsible dishes that can be found at pet stores. Zip lock bags can work in a pinch.

If you’re taking your dog for a long walk, find a shady spot and take a short break. This allows the dog to cool down. Remember, they do not sweat like you do. They rely on panting to cool them.

Be kind to other people and respect signs. For instance, don’t allow your dog to swim at a posted public beach. Not everyone loves your dog like you do. Try to find an area that is not crowded and is off the beaten path.

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Dogs that chew shoes can definitely be a big source of frustration, but it is an annoyance that is shared by many who take on the job of raising a dog. Don’t let the situation get you down. There are a few things you can try before pulling out your own hair.

Let’s start by looking at why dogs chew. Keep in mind that it is their natural instinct. Dogs use their mouths to explore their surroundings, so it is best not to put anything of value in an area where they can access it.
Teething is a big cause of chewing among puppies. They chew to soothe the pain in their gums. Boredom is another reason.

Some dogs don’t like to be left alone. Take a moment to think about it. They have been uprooted from a litter and befriended by you. You leave the house; the dog panics for fear of losing you too.

In order to solve a shoe-chewing problem, you need to figure out why the dog is chewing. Is it boredom? Did he or she do it while you were out of the house? Is it because the smell and taste of leather is too hard to resist?

The best thing you can do is to put shoes somewhere that the dog cannot access. Don’t provide the temptation by letting shoes lie around.

In the case of teething, it can be helpful to provide items that the puppy can chew when trying to relieve the discomfort of teeth trying to poke through sensitive gums. Provide plenty of toys. Rawhide chews can help, but be sure to supervise the puppy so that he or she does not swallow large pieces that can block the intestines. Try refrigerating or freezing puppy toys because the cold helps to numb the pain. There are specialized toys available in pet stores that are designed to help eliminate teething pain.

If boredom is the problem, try providing more exercise time. Make sure the dog has plenty of toys. Kong products, which are available in pet stores, that can be filled with peanut butter can provide hours of entertainment.

If your dog gets upset because you’re leaving, try to make your departure uneventful. Don’t make a big fuss over the dog before walking out the door. Make sure the dog has had plenty of exercise before you leave. A tired dog is much more likely to pass the time sleeping rather than chewing your favorite sneakers.

There are also a host of commercial products that can be sprayed on shoes to discourage chewing. Check with your veterinarian or local pet store for suggestions.

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Although dogs and pigs are two different species, both seem to share one trait. They can have an incorrigible urge to dig in the dirt.

While you might think it is cute that Rover digs and comes up with a brown nose, the next person that steps in the hole that he dug may tend to disagree with you – especially if they end up hobbling around on an overturned ankle. That’s why it is important to teach your dog not to dig.

If that is an insurmountable task, at least provide a designated area where your canine friend can dig to his or her heart’s content. Some folks have had great success with a “digging pit” where their pet can move all of the soil he or she wants to rearrange.

If you choose to construct a digging pit, it is best to build it in a shady location. Keep it far enough away from your flower and vegetable gardens so that the dog isn’t tempted to excavate a pathway through what will become your bountiful harvest.

You might wonder how your dog is going to know that the special digging pit is for his or her use. It is up to you to get the lesson across to your dog. One helpful tip is that you can try burying a favorite toy or a Kong that contains peanut butter or other tasty treats. Allow the dog to watch you when you do the burying and be sure to bury the things in a shallow hole.

One of the main reasons that dogs tend to dig is that they are creating a cool place where they can relax. While we may cringe at the thought of being covered in mud, your dog probably doesn’t care. Be sure to provide a shady, cool area where your dog can nap and relax. This will go a long way in keeping your pet from making his or her own cool nest.

Another reason for digging is boredom. You can try providing more toys or an occasional chew treat to distract Rover from attacking your yard or garden beds.

If your dog is digging holes as a means of play, you need to devise games that occupy your pet. Try playing fetch or take a long walk or a swim. A tired dog is much less likely to dig than one that has a lot of stored up energy.

If your dog insists on digging his or her way to China, it is best that you go outdoors with your dog so that you can immediately discourage such behavior. It is important to understand that you cannot scold a dog for digging hours after the damage is done. You have to catch the dog in the act. You should never use any means of physical punishment. Verbally scold the dog and redirect its attention to something else. You may have to do this quite a few times before your dog learns the lesson that digging is unacceptable.

If your dog enjoys spending time outdoors in your yard, make sure that you check in on him or her frequently. A little companionship can go a long way in redirecting your dog’s energy towards activities that you approve of.

Some dogs are not easily discouraged. If your dog is rather stubborn and headstrong, you may be forced to cover the area in which he or she chooses to constantly dig. Gravel or paver stones are two good things to use to cover small holes. In extreme cases, you may have to fence off an area to keep Rover under control.

Another deterrent is to put unpleasant things in the holes that your dog insists on digging and cover them with dirt. A mouth full of crushed red peppers might make Rover think twice before he digs again.

Definitely do not bury items such as dead fish or other animals in the holes. This will only cause the dog to dig more. Believe me, the last thing you want is a dog covered in stinky fish slime!

If you have a garden or farmland that you till, never allow your dog access to the freshly-turned soil. You may not recognize your dog when he or she is finished rolling. More than one white dog has returned home the color of chocolate brown!

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Potty training or housebreaking a puppy can be one of the biggest obstacles you encounter in raising a dog. Patience and vigilance are necessary if you want to be successful in this ordeal.

It is important to begin a serious regiment of potty training as soon as the puppy arrives in your home. As you embark on this mission, remember one thing. Rubbing a puppy’s nose in its mess will do far more harm than good. Positive reinforcement will work a lot better than punishment.

Timing is very important when housebreaking a puppy. Puppies may have to potty as many as 10 times a day. There are certain times of day that you can pretty much count on your puppy to have to go outdoors for relief. Always take them out first thing in the morning. It is also recommended that you take them out when they wake from a nap or they’ve been alone for a while. You will always want to take the puppy to the potty spot right after he or she has a meal and prior to bedtime.

One of the first orders of business is to designate a specific outdoor area as the potty spot. Consistency and encouragement will soon have the puppy seeking out the place where they are expected to do their business.

It is best to establish the potty spot in an area of your yard that isn’t used for other activities. You don’t want the puppy’s potty place to be in an area in which children are apt to play.

When you see the puppy begin to urinate or have a bowel movement in the house, the best thing is to firmly say, “Outside!” Speak loudly, but be careful not to scare or traumatize the puppy. Immediately pick him or her up and carry them outdoors to the area you have designated as a potty spot. Always use the same command. It doesn’t necessarily have to be “outside.” Choose what works for you, but be consistent.

Expect accidents to happen when potty training puppies. They are not physically capable of holding urine for long periods of time. Thus, it is important to give the puppy as many opportunities as you can to do its business.

Be sure to thoroughly clean any indoor areas where your puppy has an accident in order to discourage him or her from returning to the spot.

Some people prefer that a puppy potty on command. If this is important to you, choose a command such as “potty now” or “do your business.” Again, consistency in the use of a command is vital for success.

When it is time to take the puppy outdoors to the potty spot, see that they take care of business before their attention turns to something else. Going to the bathroom should be the first order of business. Play comes later.

Praise is an important part of the potty training process. When the puppy does do it right, make a nice fuss over them. You may want to use treats as a means of showing them how pleased you are.

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